EDUCATION
Every diamond is a work of nature three billion years in the making. The diamond you choose is not merely a financial investment, but an emotional investment as well.
Understanding how diamonds are classified is important before making your selection. The four C’s, Cut, Clarity , Carat Weight and Color, are set up to classify and price diamonds throughout the world. This guide will educate and assist you in selecting the perfect diamond for your loved one.
CUT
The cut is defined as the finish and proportions of a diamond. Proportions are the size of the angles, and finish is the facet shape, facet alignment and polish of the diamond. A diamond’s cut determines the brilliance (light return) of the diamond.
A round, brilliant cut diamond has to meet certain standards in order to have the best light return. Depth percentage and crown height play a key role in this. If the crown height is too shallow or the pavilion is too deep, the diamond will leak light.
The proportions will determine the quality of the cut, and help determine the value of the diamond. The word “cut” can also be used to describe the shape of the diamond. Fancy cut diamonds are every shape other than round: oval, cushion, pear, heart, princess, radiant, baguette and so on.
CLARITY
A diamond’s clarity is determined by the number of imperfections in the stone. Every diamond has a set of unique natural characteristics, classified as inclusions or blemishes. These “fingerprints” are a roadmap of internal and external characteristics that can uniquely identify each diamond. For example, crystals, clouds and feathers are all types of inclusions. Scratches, abrasions and naturals are all examples of blemishes. A diamond’s clarity grade is determined by the position, size, number, nature and color of the inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external). The clarity grading scale developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is as follows:
| FL | Flawless | These diamonds have no blemishes or inclusions when viewed under 10x magnification |
| IF | Internally Flawless | These diamonds have no inclusions, but have minute blemishes under 10x magnification |
| VVS1-VVS2 | Very, Very Slightly Included | These diamonds have very minute inclusions that can only be viewed through the pavilion at 10x magnification and are very difficult to see |
| VS1-VS2 | Very Slightly Included | These diamonds have minor inclusions that range from difficult to slightly easy to see under 10x magnification |
| SI1-SI2 | Slightly Included | These diamonds have noticeable inclusions that can be easy and very easy to see under 10x magnification (and possibly with the unaided eye) |
| I1-I2-I3 | Included | These diamonds have obvious inclusions and can be seen with the unaided eye - durability and beauty of the diamond may be affected |
Diamond weight is measured in carats, the standard unit for diamonds and other gemstones. One carat is equal to 200 milligrams and is further divided into 100 points. For example, 1/3 of a carat is 30 points or .30 carats. When comparing two diamonds, if all other factors are equal, the larger diamond will be more valuable. The price per carat will vary because larger diamonds are rare.
Carat weight can be estimated using the diamond’s other measurements. For example, if the diameter of a round, brilliant cut diamond is 5.20 mm, carat weight can be approximated as .50 carats. There is a specific formula for determining carat weight for each diamond if the diamond cannot be weighed.
COLOR
A diamond’s color grade in the white or “normal” range is determined by how close the body color is to colorless. Diamonds may have traces of yellow or brown in the body color, typically decreasing their value. Rare and valuable fancy colors are an exception: yellow, blue, pink, purple and red. Diamonds can also be a hybrid of these colors, such as brownish-yellow, purplish-blue and reddish-orange.
White or “colorless” diamonds are often the most requested and the most desirable color. Diamonds must be viewed in a daylight equivalent light source to determine color. The diamond color grading scale developed by Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is as follows:
| D | Colorless | Colorless diamonds will have no traces of body color. Master stones must be used to determine the grade. |
| E | ||
| F | ||
| G | Near Colorless | These diamonds will look colorless face up. The slight trace of yellow or brown may not be obvious in diamonds that are in mountings. |
| H | ||
| I | ||
| J | ||
| K | Faint Yellow or Faint Brown | Small diamonds may look colorless, but large diamonds have noticeable body color. |
| L | ||
| M | ||
| N | Very Light Yellow | |
| O | ||
| P | ||
| Q | ||
| R | ||
| S | Light Yellow | |
| T | ||
| U | ||
| V | ||
| W | ||
| X | ||
| Y | ||
| Z | ||
| Z+ | Fancy | |
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